Monday, 31 October 2011
HOME RUN
Saturday, 29 October 2011
Chesterfield Reef
Wednesday, 26 October 2011
ALBATROSS
Tuesday, 25 October 2011
Mahi Mahi
Friday, 21 October 2011
Noumea and My Birthday
Friday, October 21 – we were all set to sail to a beautiful anchorage early in the morning. I got up at 7am and opened some birthday cards and presents. We decided that an early morning coffee and croissant with Arthur would be a great way to start the day. It had blown a gale all night and we thought that by the time we had breakfast the weather conditions would have improved. We were so wrong as they actually got worse. It was gusting 20 to 25 knots in the marina! There was no way I wanted to go out to sea and battle with the strong winds and swells. We decided to spend the day in the marina and make the most of life on land. After some debate we came up with a plan to go to the aquarium. Well it was a strange decision as New Caledonia has some of the best coral reefs in the world and I had a plan to dive on the best of them. Off to the aquarium we went armed with a backpack full of chicken baguettes that I had made for lunch. The aquarium was quite impressive and you can see from the photo that Arthur and I actually went diving! After the aquarium we headed to the beach to watch the windsurfers zipping along in the gale forces winds. See the photo of Ian and Arthur bracing against the wind. It then started to rain so we retreated to a beachfront restaurant for a round of beers. It was a bit early for sundowners but we were at a loss at this stage as to how to spend the rest of the day. All of a sudden we heard a commotion on the road with lots of car horns tooting and cameramen flashing. It looked like somebody famous had decided to get married on the road (or on the road next to the beach). Arthur and I jumped out to take photos while Ian hood behind the beer garden table. The girl was beautifully dressed for a wedding and her husband was in some kind of military uniform. I’m sure they were famous for something either in France or New Caledonia. After the drinks we walked the 4km or so back to our marina. During the walk we came across a movie set and watched a ‘pregnant lady’ getting in and out of a car several times with shopping bags while a cameraman filmed her. There were 2 bouncers that managed to keep us and everyone else out of the movie set. We kept wandering along the path and came across a huge propeller which made a good background for a photo. We arrived back at the marina and climbed on board Faraway at around 4pm and started our sundowners. It was a very busy day of basically doing nothing. Arthur cooked my birthday dinner and Ian assisted him when required. The good news was that in spite of the slow day we had come up with a plan to leave Noumea and head to Prony bay the next day. Hopefully the morning would bring lighter winds and we could sail the 20 miles to the anchorage and start doing some real diving and enjoy ourselves.
Wednesday, 19 October 2011
Noumea
On Tuesday, October 18 the winds were so strong that we were virtually able to sail into Port Moselle Marina at around 3pm. It was our first visit to a marina since leaving Panama five months ago. We managed to squeeze into our marina berth in fairly strong winds but unfortunately sustained a scrape on our starboard side as the wind pushed us onto the dock before we had secured the lines. The sailor who invented fenders was a total genius and luckily for us we have a lot on board to protect our boat and other large objects in these situations. Within 2 hours we had cleared immigration, quarantine and customs. Unfortunately quarantine confiscated all our fresh fruit and vegetables as well as a freezer full of meat. If the meat wasn’t purchased in New Zealand or Australia it wasn’t permitted into New Caledonia. We were both really tired from our journey so we secured Faraway and had a power nap. We were meeting Arthur Jackson later that evening so after our sleep we decided to explore the cosmopolitan city and get a bite to eat. The weather was cold and rainy and for the first time in a year we pulled out our jumpers and rugged up. We had a tourist map and walked along fairly dark streets looking for a place to eat. After a lot of walking we didn’t see anything that caught our eye or it was too expensive so Ian decided that McDonalds would be the best option. I wasn’t too keen because I had read about all the beautiful French style cafes and restaurants that were in Noumea and thought we had hit rock bottom with this dining option. We soon found out we had. Ian left me to try and order in French and he went off to find a quiet table outside. I secured the fast food and found Ian but within moments a guy sat at the next table and started rambling on in French. We couldn’t understand what he was talking about but this was probably a good thing. During the course of our meal he got louder and louder and the customers started to sit elsewhere except for 2 young guys who came and sat on the table in front of us. We were eating pretty quickly because we had to meet Arthur at his hotel. Ian had almost finished and I was certainly keen to leave when the young guy in front of us sneezed in our direction. Ian exclaimed ‘good shot mate’ as he wiped moisture from his hand and fries. There was no apology and it certainly brought a rapid end to my meal so we both got up and left to be met around the corner in a dark street by a guy wanting money for a taxi fare home. At this point I was still hungry, tired and not in the mood for obliging him so we politely made our excuses and took off for a well lit street. The thought struck me that being out at sea was probably a more pleasant option then being back in an urban environment. We met Arthur at around 9:45pm and he was happy to see us. We had a quick catch up and a beer and arranged to meet him the next morning. He had a good flight except for a missing bag that we were able to track down later before sailing. Wednesday and Thursday was spent mainly provisioning for food and liquid refreshments. The bread and cheese were deliciously French and we bought fresh fruit and vegetables from the markets. We also bought some lovely tuna at the fish market and that evening Arthur cooked a delicious meal for us all. We have now finished all our other odd jobs such as washing down the boat and getting the laundry done. Tomorrow we set sail early for the Isle de Pines. We will snorkel, scuba dive and relax there until we get a good weather window for the passage to Australia.
Tuesday, 18 October 2011
New Caledonia
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Bad Luck and Wind
We were just about to leave Suva at lunch time today as the wind had finally arrived. We spent the morning getting last minute supplies and more diesel. Our friends on Saba left and called us later on the radio to get sailing as they were getting a steady 15 knots of wind. I went below to but our supplies away while Ian worked up on deck. I was putting our groceries in the cupboard when I accidently dropped a bottle of soya sauce on my foot and the glass broke cutting the top of my foot. I called Ian and he thought it was serious as there was sauce all over my legs and the floor. We cleaned up the cut then decided to go to the Doctor and get it checked because we didn't want an infection to start while on a 5 day passage. Lucky all is well now and the Doctor just put a butterfly clip on it and gave me some antibiotics. It's 4pm now but we still plan to set sail as soon as the dinghy is up on deck and everything is stowed away. Unfortunately Ian now has to do all these jobs on his own so it will take longer than our usual preparation time. We aren't looking forward to starting a passage with a night sail but we really need to be in New Caledonia soon to pick up our friend and next crew member Arthur Jackson. To make matters worse it is raining heavily again so the visibility is poor. We just hope that we can relax a bit when we arrive in New Caledonia. The photo shows a cute sailing yacht and the mist covered mountains that bordered our anchorage in Suva.
Monday, 10 October 2011
Ovalau
We arrived in Ovalau anchorage late on Sunday afternoon. We wanted to clear out and sail to New Caledonia but we had missed the customs office and the rain had set in making the visibility impossible on the open ocean. Monday was 'Fiji' day and unfortunately we were unable to raise anyone in customs so had to wait it out for another day in Ovalau. It was just as well because the storms and rain rolled in and it was a bleak and grey day. In the afternoon the weather cleared a little so we were able to take the dinghy into town and have a walk. The village is very historic as Ovalau was originally going to be the capital of Fiji because ships could sail in and out of the harbour easily. The plan never eventuated but the high street buildings and the quaint churches that are left behind give an indication of a once bustling community. Sadly today the only real prosperity seems to come from the huge fish processing factory that is located on the dockside. All the shops were closed so we walked along the road to the next village stopping at various historic sites along the way. We had to chuckle at the telephone poles that were actually built in the water cutting across the bay as it was the most direct route between the villages. We had no idea how the lines would have been serviced. As we walked back into town we were amazed by the number of pigeons that congregated on the telephone lines in one part of the village. It seemed that they were trying to seek shelter from the rain as there was certainly no food available on the ground. We expected to see seagulls in town rather than pigeons so this was a bit of a surprise. We wandered into the only shop that was open and bought chocolate ice creams. The door of the Customs office was padlocked so we made our way back to Faraway and settled in for a relaxing night. Tomorrow we would have to be up early to clear customs, buy fresh bread, fruit and vegetables and start sailing to New Caledonia whatever the weather.
Makogai and Gannets
On Saturday, October 8 we left Savusavu at 9:30am and motor sailed down to an island called Makogai in an attempt to leave Fiji. It had rained all night and there was no wind. We joined 2 other yachts from New Zealand called Ruby June and Relapse. We ended up motoring for 9 hours to reach Makogai but it seemed more enjoyable in the company of others who were in the same boat! The yacht Relapse helped us get through 2 tricky coral reefs in the 'save a tack passage'. Their son Ash went up the mast to spot the shallow reefs so we could safely pass through the deeper water. If it wasn't for their help we would have gone around the reef which would have taken much longer in time, fuel and engine hours. We reached Makogai island at 5:30pm and managed to negotiate the last reef on our own and anchor before dark. During the 9 hour trip we were in visual and radio contact with the 2 other yachts. Relapse were catching and losing fish while Ruby June announced that they had caught 2 Booby Birds (Gannets) and were putting them in the pot for dinner after they had plucked the feathers off. I was horrified to hear this and said to Ian 'isn't that illegal'? We didn't really know the crew of Ruby June but fell for their story hook line and sinker. We invited both yacht crew over for drinks on board Faraway that night but said we would skip dinner fearing that Ruby June would bring over the cooked Booby birds and we would have to be polite and eat them. It was only after several drinks and a lot of concern on my part that Ruby June revealed that they were actually joking with us about cooking the birds and had made every effort to release them after accidently catching them on fishing line. What a relief and what a shame that we had been 'had' at the same time. The drinks went well into the night and we didn't finish up until 1:30am in the morning. Luckily the anchorage on Makogai island was beautiful and calm but the island had a sad history. It was a former leper colony in which over 1000 people had died. The next day I went over to the island and the locals performed a Kava ceremony (without women) then gave us all a tour of the island including the cemetery. The island was now a clam and turtle sanctuary. Unfortunately the last turtle had been released back to the ocean the week before we arrived. There were lots of clams being bred in large tubs that were once used as baths in the leper colony. They had 2 large clams in 1 tub that were 18 years old and they were used to lay eggs for the sanctuary. There were hundreds of 1 and 2 year old clams in the baths waiting to be re-homed on coral reefs owned by Fijian resorts. It was an extremely interesting tour and I learned a lot of facts about the colourful clams and the breeding program. Unfortunately it was time for Ian and I to leave Makogai and after lunch we said our goodbyes to the New Zealand yachts and lifted the anchor. We sailed in the late afternoon to Ovalau island to clear out of Fiji. The island was only 15 miles away and we managed to sail there in 2 hours due to strong winds. We didn't arrive until after 5pm though and Customs had left for the day so we decided to wait overnight and clear out on Monday.
Thursday, 6 October 2011
Farewell Graham and Flynn
We sailed into the anchorage in front of the Tramonto pizza restaurant on a hill on the Norhwest side of Taveuni around 3pm on Monday, October 3. Flynn and Ian were craving for ice creams so we went ashore in the dinghy and walked over a mile to the only supermarket in Taveuni that sold ice creams. On the way we were followed by a friendly dog that we couldn't seem to get rid of. We had a lovely walk and came across the interesting weather forecast sign just outside Taveuni airport. The dog followed us all the way back to the pizza restaurant but we lost him when we went inside for food. We had to take a photo of the 'densely populated area - drive slowly' sign. There just wasn't a sole about and in town we only saw a few people. The sunset was a bit of a fizzer as a lot of cloud rolled in on the horizon and it became very overcast. We enjoyed the same lovely view but became concerned when we saw how much Faraway was rolling in the swell. We ordered beers and pizza and played with a mother cat and her kitten. The kitten had identical markings to the mother and Graham seemed to like squeezing it! After dinner we walked back down in the dark to the dinghy. It was too rolly on board to have tea or play dominoes so we all went to bed early. The boys had to be up at 6am for the 8:30am flight to Nadi then on to Melbourne. None of us had a very good sleep as the boat rolled all night. In the morning we were packed and ready to go on time at 6:30am but I wanted to burn some photos first for our visitors to take. This delayed us 15 mins and when we headed off to the beach the heavens opened up and it poured down with rain. We all got saturated including the luggage so it was a bit uncomfortable walking the mile or so into town. Luckily for us a local guy called Harry picked us up in his ute and gave us a lift to the airport. We left Graham and Flynn at 9am as the plane still hadn't taken off and we had to get sailing on Faraway to reach our next anchorage before sunset. As we were in the dinghy motoring out to Faraway we saw their plane fly overhead and the boys saw us and waved goodbye. We were lucky enough to get some wind and managed to sail and motor all the way back to the point at Costeau Resort where we anchored for the night. We cleared back into Savusavu on Wednesday, October 5 and we have been in the harbour waiting for the winds to take us to our next destination New Caledonia. We should be able to leave on Saturday, October 8 and work our way across to the eastern side of Fiji to meet the winds on either Monday or Tuesday. Well that's the plan at this stage.
Nasau Bay
On Sunday, October 2 there was no wind so we decided to motor along to Nasau Bay. It was a beautiful quiet bay with a small village and a resort. We anchored in a nice spot then decided to check out the snorkelling. It was absolutely incredible probably the best snorkelling that we had ever done. We couldn’t believe the water clarity and the colours and varieties of corals. We stayed out that long that we all managed to get sunburnt as well. After snorkelling we had an afternoon snooze then took a dinghy ride to the beach and went for a fossick along a secluded beach. In the evening I cooked up a nice curry and we played dominoes until 10pm. The next morning we were up early and Flynn had a lesson from Ian on coconut opening with a large machette. The coconut was delicious once we got the husk off. We then went snorkelling again on the other side of the bay. The reef was just as beautiful and I managed to spot 2 turtles underwater that disappeared pretty quickly. After a couple of hours we headed back to Faraway and got her ready for the sail back to Taveuni. Luckily the wind had picked up so we were able to show Graham and Flynn how Faraway actually sails instead of motoring. We arrived at the anchorage off the pizza place in Taveuni around 3pm and all went to shore.
Navolau Point
We woke up to a leisurely 7am start on Saturday, October 1. There was no wind in the bay and the sea over the reef was calm and mirror clear. I made pancakes for breakfast while we planned the activities for the day. We decided to go snorkelling again and it was excellent. Graham and Flynn really enjoyed exploring the reefs and saw lobsters and all kinds of reef fish. Interestingly we noticed a lot of crown of thorns starfish on the reef. You could clearly see the areas on reef where they had devastated the corals. We went to shore and collected coconuts and papaya from trees that were growing wild. Graham discovered some wild orchids growing and some other strange kind of nut that we haven’t identified yet. We had lunch onboard Faraway to escape the midday heat then Ian discovered that our generator had broken down again. Graham, Flynn and I went to shore for a fossick while Ian spoke nicely to the generator. Luckily he got it working again and came over in the dinghy to collect us. We had a lovely sundowners and Graham took over the BBQ duties from Ian. Unfortunately I lost my tooth crown to the last bite of my pork chop. It’s a bit of a shame really as I now have a missing tooth until we get to Australia. It did make Flynn laugh though when the tooth fell out on my plate! We played dominoes again and had an early night. We were glad about the decision to stay in this beautiful anchorage another night.