Final sail on Faraway

Cosimo Visits

While on the mooring ball in Pittwater we had a surprise visit from our cruising friends Ken and Wendy (ex-Cosimo). They were delivering a yacht from Coffs Harbour to Tasmania and Ken spotted Faraway in the Salt Pan Bay anchorage. They motored up next to us and called out 'hi there' from their yacht. Ian and I had to look twice because we recognised the people but not the yacht. We made an arrangement to meet up with them later for Sundowners in Trowlers Bay. It was great spending the afternoon with them and we caught up on all the latest over some cold beers. The next morning they were up early and were last seen heading south! We wonder where we will meet up with them next time?  For now we are happy just doing weekend sails and short cruises while taking in the sights of Sydney.   Please see my Facebook page for all our current adventures as I find that an easier way to stay in touch.

Pittwater in Sydney

We sailed into our anchorage in Pittwater, Sydney around 8pm in the evening on Sunday, March 4. Unfortunately we arrived at the same time as the storm clouds, rain and early darkness so we had to anchor using the radar. The 230 nautical mile trip south from Coffs Harbour (top photo) was very swift as we had very good winds and a strong current pushing us most of the way. Faraway was averaging 7 knots of speed and sometimes she got excited and reached 11 knots. It was still very comfortable sailing and we didn't feel like the boat was under any stress. The decision to leave Coffs Harbour was a hasty one on Saturday morning. It was raining in the morning and a southerly change was predicted in the next few days. Ian made the decision to slip the lines and we motored out of the breakwater around 10am out into the murky ocean. In the afternoon we took up our usual watch and monitored tankers on the radar during the night. In the morning we called the Coastguard at Port Stephens who informed us that the weather wasn't looking very favourable further south. We had to make a decision whether to call into Port Stephens and anchor for a few more days or take the risk with the weather and continue on to Sydney. We decided that we could reach Sydney before the worst of the weather arrived as long as we didn't lose any speed so we sailed on. We had a well deserved rest on Sunday night than woke up to a beautiful clear day in Pittwater on Monday morning. Luckily our anchoring skills during the night put us in a good position in Careel Bay. We had been booked for a boat show March 24 to 25 and many small challenges were install for us over the following weeks ahead in Sydney.

Coffs Harbour - u4ia

After the visit from Tania and Bob we walked up Mutton Bird Island to watch the twilight yacht race. The conditions were more than breezy at around 26 knots but all the yachts were loving being out on the water. We met Cindy and Bilby up at the lookout and watched the yachts together while taking some rather windswept photos of each other! I'm not sure what's going on with my hair! The second photo from the top shows the yacht (which incidently is in the berth next to us) sailing out through the seawall with crew onboard. After the excitement of the race Cindy and Bilby came back to Faraway for some sundowners and I cooked up a chicken curry for dinner. We had a lovely evening with these new friends. The next morning they were up early with Ian to put their repaired sail back in the furling system. I snoozed on until Ian came back to Faraway to tell me u4ia were leaving and to come and say farewell. I jumped up out of bed and we raced up Mutton Bird Island in time to see them sailing up north with a fully intact mainsail. Hopefully with the strong southerlies they will reach Cairns in time to meet up with their friends as planned. We will miss their company as well and wish them fair winds and good luck with their sailing adventures.

Coffs Harbour - Old Mates

On our way into Coffs Harbour I decided to try and find some old friends (Tania and Bob Lamb) that I had worked on Heron Island with 20 years ago. It was a bit of a long shot but I knew they were from Coffs Harbour so I googled Bob and came up with a pretty likely hit. I emailed Bob and to my surprise his wife Tania replied within a few hours. They were very busy getting ready to head up north for a 6 month stint working on Lizard Island but found some time to meet up with us on Faraway. It was great seeing them again and we caught up on 20 years in about 2 hours. They were both still as happy as you like and we really enjoyed their company. It was such a shame that we didn't have more time to spend with them but we were also really happy they made the effort to visit us.

Coffs Harbour

We arrived in Coffs Harbour just after lunch on Wednesday, February 29. We were very tired after only 1 night at sea but felt that we had made the right decision as the winds virtually died as we approached the harbour. We entered through the sea wall and arrived at our berth without any problems. We were actually starting to get good at this! We went for a walk on land, had a beautiful refreshing swim at the beach then a quick late lunch. Ian went to help a yacht called u4ia with their torn main sail while I washed down Faraway. We had quite a few waves break over the cabin on the journey and it's always good to wash off the salt water. It was very peaceful in the marina and the day was very hot, calm and still. While washing the boat I could hear some strange but familiar noises in the background. It was a loud blowing sound of air and water. I looked behind the boat to see a huge dolphin breaking the surface. The marina is so clean he obviously does a regular swim buy looking for fish food. I packed a cool bag with some beers and went to check on Ian. He was still helping u4ia with their main sail but I was welcomed on board and we all sat down for sundowners with our new friends called Cindy and Bilby. They had left Sydney and were on their way up to Cairns when the bad weather got the better of their main sail and they had to come in for repairs. We chatted with them until late in the evening then went back to Faraway for an uninterrupted sleep!

The Gold Coast

As we entered the Broadwater we were bombarded by jet skis and power boats. The calm and quiet passage surrounded by native trees and sand dunes that we had sailed down opened up into a highway for motor boats, high rise buildings and million dollar waterfront houses. It was an exhausting contrast but we still managed to find a very quiet anchorage outside an area called 'the rock' on South Stradbroke Island. We watched a beautiful golden sunset and Ian even spotted a kangaroo watching the sunset on the beach across from us. As the sunlight began to fade the sky turned a beautiful pink and illuminated a house boat anchored in front of us. I was amazed that even the house boats here were 'high rise'. We had another early start the next morning with a plan to sail overnight down to Coffs Harbour. We exited the seaway around 7am and found it to be more bumpy and shallower in parts than expected. Luckily we had a few other boats for company and headed out with the guidance of the Gold Coast VMR who incidently do a wonderful job for the boating community. We picked up the northeasterly wind and sailed out to sea to pick up the East Australian Current. It was a beautiful morning and the winds were a bit lighter than expected. It wasn't long before we had crossed the Queensland border into New South Wales. By now we were well on our way down to Sydney. As the day progressed we picked up stronger winds and current. Ian had to go out on deck in the big swells and put the whisker pole out so we could run downwind. We were then getting good speeds between 7 to 8 knots but the swells were unfriendly when they hit us beam on. I was still getting my sailing legs back and in one moment of carelessness decided to lie down in the cockpit on the upwind side. It wasn't long before I was lying on the cockpit floor with some new bruises and bumps to add to my collection! The sun set before we had time to organise dinner so we went with the easy option of hot soup. We both wrapped up warmly ready the night watch. We saw lots of container ships on the radar and visually. Most of them ran down our starboard side with no change of course required except for one ship that we had to radio several times to warn that he was actually on a collision course with us. When the Captain finally picked up the radio call after we quoted his approximate position he said "are you talking to me"? and shone a strobe light above the ships tower to confirm it was his ship we were actually communicating with. As things are always more difficult at night when sailing we prefer to be extra cautious. The winds carried us nicely further south but due to a predicted bad weather system coming up from the south we decided to go ahead with our plan to stay at the International Marina in Coffs Harbour.

Sailing to Sydney

On Sunday, February 26 at 8:45am we slipped the mooring lines at Scarborough Marina and slowly motored across Moreton bay. The weather was still quite rough and there was at least a metre of chop and 20 knots of wind as we headed south. It was nice to be out on the water again and we watched other yachts taking advantage of the strong winds. We decided to test our new rocna anchor in a calm bay off Dunwich on Stradbroke Island. The anchor worked better than expected but we had a mishap with our anchor windlass while getting used to the new set-up. Luckily it didn't prevent us from continuing our journey. We were up early the next morning to continue our passage down the Canipa Passage. We enjoyed the scenery as we wound our way through the shallow passage between sand banks and islands. The biggest challenge was clearing the overhead power cables with our mast. The cables are marked on the chart as being set to a height of 20 meters which left a few meters margin for us. You can see from the photo the power lines sag in the middle so we wisely motored to the left of the bank. After clearing the power lines we still had a few narrow areas to navigate through. The small bird in the photo came down to warn us it was getting shallow just before we nudged the bottom. Luckily we steered off into deeper water without any problems. As we approached Tipplers Passage the scenery changed dramatically and we wished that we could have spent time anchored near the Jumpinpin bar. Unfortunately we had to get to the Broadwater so we could cross the Gold Coast Seaway early the next morning.

Scarborough Marina

We were off land for a while but now back in Scarborough Marina waiting for that magic weather window to sail south to Sydney. Unfortunately It hasn't really stopped raining since Tuesday evening and today the winds kicked off to around 20 knots. Despite our best efforts we have found the last leg of our journey the most challenging with many delays and disappointments. Faraway is ready to set sail but we are reluctant to sail into southerly winds and large swells especially in poor visibility. Ian and I have been doing odd jobs on the boat and in the afternoon when we have been lucky enough to get a break in the weather I have been taking photos around the marina. Hopefully the weather will improve tomorrow and we can set off early in the morning.

Faraway under sail

After a fairly extended festive season we finally got our new Rocna Anchor and 100 metres of chain fitted to Faraway. Ian and I also worked solidly for a few days removing items that we no longer need onboard Faraway making her a few tons lighter! The weather in Brisbane had been very unstable with constant rain but we were ready to head south to Sydney. We refitted our newly serviced sails and stocked up the galley with food and drinks. At 6am we slipped the lines effortlessly and motored quietly out of Scarborough Marina. It was a beautiful day with bright sunshine for the first time in weeks and a light northerly wind. We motored across Moreton Bay and as we rounded the tip of Moreton Island 4 hours later we decided to let some more sail out. Unfortunately we had a mishap with our main sail furling drum and had no option but to turn back to Scarborough. We are now patiently waiting for a repair and the weather to become non-cyclonic! Our friends on Cosimo (yacht from Tasmania) sent us this photo of Faraway under sail between Suwarrow in the Cook Islands and Tonga. I think this is the only photo we have of Faraway cruising under sail. Hopefully we will be on our way south again soon.

Running Out of Luck

After the dolphin feeding fun was over we motored up to Coolibah Creek on Fraser Island to anchor overnight in preparation for our final 80 mile sail to Brisbane the next morning. After sailing over 10,000 nautical miles around island chains and across open oceans this short journey proved to be the most challenging for us so far. Two days earlier we had attempted to cross the bar but turned back when the Coastguard advised us that another yacht had suffered sail damage and the conditions could only be described as 'ugly out there'. Maybe our luck had finally began to run out as the following series of events unfolded for our next attempt. The engine on Faraway had been running a little rough over the last few days so in the overnight anchorage Ian decided to change the fuel filter. He was unable to prime the fuel without air bubbles forming and the engine would run for a few minutes then stop starved of fuel. We changed the filter again and still had the same problem four hours later. There was no way that we could cross the shallow and dangerous Wide Bay Bar in the morning without a reliable engine. We called a Yanmar engine specialist in Tin Can Bay and he suggested to check the fuel lines back to the source. Luckily Ian spotted the problem immediately. One of the copper fuel hose connectors had sheared off from the fuel tank preventing a constant fuel flow to the engine. Ian managed to reconnect the hose with some spare watermaker parts and our engine started to work again like magic. There was only time left for a quick dinner and an early night as we had a 4:30am start the next day. We woke up to a miserable and rainy day but pulled the dinghy up and our anchor and headed towards the bar. We could see at least 12 other yachts motoring out as well to cross the bar at high tide. This was a good sign compared to our first attempt at crossing the bar when we didn't see any other yachts out on the water. We were both apprehensive about the crossing but realised that once we were over it would be a straight run down to Brisbane. There was only one spot where it became shallow on the bar and the waves were steep between 2 to 3 metres but our engine held out and Faraway glided over the big waves effortlessly. Unfortunately the predicted winds never came so we had to motor south. The visibility was so poor that we nearly didn't see a small fishing boat bobbing out on the ocean across our path (I have no idea why they would be out fishing in such a small boat in terrible conditions). I took a bleak photo of the coloured sands on the famous 40 mile beach as we motor sailed past. After 5 hours of motoring we decided to stop off at Laguna Bay in Noosa to put the anchor down and give Faraway and ourselves a rest. We planned to leave around 10pm that night with the wind and sail down to Brisbane for sunrise. That was the plan. After anchoring out off the shark nets in fairly calm conditions and light winds we had some lunch and a rest. The winds started to increase late afternoon and by 4pm we decided that the swell was getting too big for comfort. Ian went on deck to put the lines out for a downwind sail when all of a sudden Faraway seemed to suddenly change direction in the water. I could see the shark nets and the beach getting closer and closer. We were drifting onto the beach! Ian yelled out to pull the anchor up so I ran to the bow and started winching. I hadn't winch very far when a length of chain came up without our 70lb anchor. Our anchor chain had snapped and our faithful anchor was lost forever. Our worst nightmare had happened after all these miles. Ian had to cold start the engine and we accelerated through the waves out to sea. I was in shock at this stage. After 15 mins we called the Coastguard so they could warn the other yachts anchored in the bay. The Coastguard then informed us that a severe thunderstorm was headed our way as the day turned into night. As I looked out of the cockpit all I could see were thunderclouds and lightning. There was no escape we were surrounded by bad weather. Ian decided to run north to avoid the storms that were showing up on the radar in an intensity that we had never seen before. Lightning was hitting the water all around us and also on land. The situation had become extremely dangerous. Ian tracked the storm until we could head south. Luckily we managed to avoid the worst of it. The predicted wind did not arrive so we continued motoring along the coast until we reached an area south of Mooloolaba. We were able to sail a course here to fill in time so we could be south of Caloundra for entrance into the North West Channel at sunrise. Ian kept a good watch during the night for large ships which were anchored off shore waiting for their pilots. The sunrise brought clear skies and a beautiful view over Caloundra and the Glass House Mountains. We slowly motored along the channel into Moreton Bay. I saw a small pod of dolphins which was a nice welcome. We were both totally exhausted and looking forward to getting into Scarborough Marina for a rest. We arrived safely around 10am just in time to avoid more thunderstorms and the heavy rain that hit the coast around noon. I'm happy to hang up my anchor for a a while now and have some land time. We won't be going very far anyway until we buy some more chain and a replacement anchor. If there is a Santa Claus we could certainly do with a visit!

Tin Can Bay - Dolphin Feeding

On Friday, December 9 we took the dinghy to shore early to drop Peter off to catch the bus to Brisbane. We moored the dinghy right next to a cafe where the locals have been feeding rare Indo-Pacific Humpback dolphins since the 1950's. I just had to take a look and ran over in time to see the last fish being hand fed to one of these unusual looking dolphins. The last photo shows one of the dolphins looking very lonely! He was waiting around for more food so the guides asked everyone to leave the area so he would know there was no more food and return to sea. It was pretty incredible to see the dolphins up so close and I've copied a little bit of interesting information about these marine mammals from the Barnacles Dolphin Centre website.

History of the Tin Can Dolphins

We are often asked “how did these dolphins come to interact with the locals at Tin Can Bay”? It started back in the 1950’s when an injured dolphin beached himself on the sand at Barnacles Cafe. The locals took pity on him and started to feed him. This dolphin was well battle scarred and became known as ‘Old Scarry’. Once he was well enough Old Scarry returned to the wild but regularly returned to the bay to visit the locals and enjoy a free meal.

The second well known dolphin at Tin Can Bay was a female, also called Scarry. In 1991, there was much excitement when Scarry arrived in the bay with a calf. The local school children named this one ‘Mystique’ who continues to visit the bay on a daily basis as the third generation to carry on this tradition.

Mystique is the alpha male of his pod and is also scarred from his many battles, including a battle with a bull shark in December 2007. Once again a dolphin sought refuge in the cove at Barnacles with volunteers feeding and caring for him around the clock for 10 days. Once he was able to hunt for himself, Mystique thanked everyone with an aerial display before heading out with Patch to return to the wild.

Patch is a female member of Mystique’s pod who started to come into the Cove to feed after the disappearance of Scarry. She is thought to be around 23 years old and weigh just over 200 kg. In comparison to Mystique she has very few battle scars and she is throwing a pink colour as she ages.

More recently another young dolphin known as ‘Harmony’ began visiting regularly with Mystique. Harmony is a juvenile male thought to be about three years old. This makes the fourth generation of dolphin to feed with the locals and visitors to Tin Can Bay. Harmony is also quite scarred for one so young and appears to be holding up the family tradition of liking a good fight. Harmony is very inquisitive and likes to check out his human visitors from a distance.

Dire Straits

We are still up in the Sandy Straits with our friend Peter who we met while sailing the South Pacific. Peter, a seasoned sailor and Professional Skipper decided to call in on us for a visit on Faraway en-route back home to New Zealand. Our plan is to sail south to Brisbane by the end of this week but at the moment there are strong wind warnings, big seas and rain clouds looming overhead of us. We are basically stuck here until the weather situation improves. We picked Peter up on Wednesday in Tin Can Bay then motored north through the narrow Sheridan Flats to seek shelter in Kingfisher Bay from the severe thunderstorms and winds that were predicted to head our way. We arrived in the bay late afternoon and quickly went ashore to explore the resort with Peter. We sat on the beach and had sundowners while watching the storm brew over on the mainland. We had already stowed and tied everything away onboard Faraway in preparation for the storm. Luckily the storm virtually went around us and we sat in the cockpit watching the lightning show and the sunset beneath the towering black clouds. We experienced strong wind gusts over the next few days and it has been mostly very hot and sunny. We have spent the days hiking the bush tracks, pumping for yabbies, kayaking and fishing off the jetty. Ian has spent hours working on our generator and engine but we have found some time to relax for a change. On Saturday afternoon we watched a beautiful golden sunset over the mouth of the Maryborough River from the bow of Faraway. As the sun slid beneath the horizon a large turtle breached the surface of the water very close to Faraway. At that moment we realized how special this journey was and appreciated the opportunity to explore Fraser Island from a yacht. After enjoying all that nature has to offer Peter suggested that we head over to the resort for a restaurant meal. We had quick showers and put our ‘normal’ clothes on for the occasion and braved the return dinghy trip in the dark. We had some yummy cocktails and a delicious dinner in the Seabells Restaurant. The next day we were all slow to start but I went for a nice kayak along the mangroves while Ian pumped for yabbies. Faraway looked at home against the back drop of white sandy beaches, tall coloured sand dunes and bright blue skies. We decided to head south in the afternoon and made an overnight stop at the South White Cliffs anchorage. Unfortunately the bugs were all over us because we anchored very close to the mangroves and the wind had dropped off. Today we were up at 5:30am to head down to Garry’s anchorage on the high tide. Before we set off Ian and Peter went to check the crab pots and they were lucky enough to get one big buck Mud Crab. The crab is destined for our plates at lunchtime today if Ian can get motivated to clean and cook him. It is a very rainy and overcast day but a nice change from the scorching heat of the last few weeks. While the sun isn’t shining I have time to catch up on the blog and start writing those soon to be overdue Christmas cards!

Tin Can Bay Marina

We have spent the last 2 days in Tin Can Bay Marina doing the clothes washing and washing down Faraway. For a yacht she was starting to smell quite fishy with all the crab bait and fish bait that had been passed over the aft deck. The Marina is in a lovely location next to beautiful parks and nature reserves teeming with wildlife. My favourites are the rainbow lorikeets shown in this photo. When the tide is out in the bay the scenery changes dramatically and it is possible to walk and fish along the mud banks. At the moment the military is letting off unexploded bombs and flares on the nearby range so the sunsets have been pretty spectacular with the smoke in the sky. November is one of the hottest times of the year in this part of Australia and Ian and I are finding the days pretty exhausting if we are outdoors. Luckily there is normally a cooling breeze in the afternoon that we can look forward to.